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富吉卡

富吉卡 Phobjikha Valley:翻过黑山山脉即进入不丹中部地区,沿途您都在杉树、松树等密林中穿行,特别是在接近抵达富吉卡山谷时,会经过一片片的高山草甸和杜鹃林,空气清新、美景应接不暇。富吉卡山谷位于黑山山脉脚下,这里是生物多样性地带,有着茂密的针叶林,杜鹃,木兰,橡树,香蕉树和仙人掌,登上山脊欣赏远处高峰和森林的美景。富吉卡也是珍稀濒危候鸟黑颈鹤的家,黑颈鹤是不丹人钟爱的鸟儿,在富吉卡河谷低地到处可见,她们摄人心魄的忧郁鸣叫声充斥在天空中。

富吉卡的广袤山谷、连绵起伏,湛蓝天空和绿色草甸中间浮着雪白的扎眼的云朵。您一定会被这里沁人心脾的美所深深吸引。

在酒店餐厅早餐或喝杯咖啡时,可以同时将这无与伦比的山谷美景收入眼底,非常惬意。


PHOBJIKHA VALLEY:
Phobjikha is a bowl-shaped glacial valley on the western slopes of the Black Mountains, bordering the Jigme Singye Wangchuck National Park. Because of the large flock of black-necked cranes that winters here, it is one of the most important wildlife preserves in the country. In addition to the cranes there are also muntjacs (barking deer), wild boars, sambars, Himalayan black bears, leopards and red foxes in the surrounding hills. The Nakey Chhu drains the marshy valley, eventually flowing into the lower reaches of the Punak Tsang Chhu.
Some people refer to this entire region as Gangte (or Gangtey), after the goemba that sits on a ridge above the valley. The three-day Gangte trek takes off from this valley.
The road from Gangte Goemba winds down to the valley floor and passes extensive russet-coloured fields of potatoes that contrast with the rich green of the valley. Gangte potatoes are the region’s primary cash crop and one of Bhutan’s important exports to India.
The valley is snowbound during the height of winter and many of the valley’s 4500 residents, including the monks, shift to winter residences in Wangdue Phodrang during December and January, just as the cranes move in to take their place. The local residents, known as Gangteps, speak a dialect called Henke. Pockets of the Bon religion reputedly exist in the Taphu Valley.
HIKING THE PHOBJIKHA VALLEY:
There’s some great hiking in the valley and surprisingly for Bhutan it’s mostly flat going! The information centre has suggested the following walking routes and you can get information on these and other trails there (though take their trail maps with a pinch of salt).
A good short walk is the Gangte Nature Trail (1½ hours), which leads downhill from the mani stone wall just north of the Gangte Goemba to the Khewa Lhakhang. The trail descends to Semchubara village and keeps straight at the chorten into the edge of the forest, before descending to a square chorten and the lhakhang. From here you can cross over the metal bridge to the local school.
You could add on a half-day hike into the valley behind Khewa Lhakhang along the Tenkhor Yuetshe Sum trail, linking up the villages of Gophu, Dogsena, Pangsa and Jangchu Goemba in a loop back to Khewa.
Another option is the one-hour Kilkhorthang Trail, from the small lhakhang at Kungathang across the valley to the Damchoe Lhakhang, south of Tabiting. Alternatively, drive further south from Kungathang to the lovely side valley of Lawog and explore on foot from there.
The tougher half-day Shashi La Nature Trail leads up the valley behind Beyta school, though the trail is easier to follow from the track behind the Amankora resort. The path leads through rhododendron forests to the village of Ramgokha, a collection of chortens and then Shashi La pass, before descending through old-growth forest to the Phama Hotel at Kalekha on the main Wangdue Phodrang road. Arrange to get picked up here and continue on to Wangdi. This is the traditional route taken by the Gangte trulku and local farmers when they leave the valley for the winter. A local guide would be sensible for this route.
WATCHING THE CRANES:
The marshy centre of the Phobjikha valley means it’s best avoided on foot but it’s a perfect winter residence for the flock of 350 (up from 212 a decade ago) rare and endangered black-necked cranes that migrate from the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau to Bhutan in late autumn, typically between 23 and 26 October. The Bhutanese have great respect for these ‘heavenly birds’, and songs about the cranes are popular among village folk. In mid-February, the cranes circle Gangte Goemba and fly back across the Himalaya to their summer homes in Tibet. One of the most popular folk songs of the people of Phobjikha laments the time when the cranes leave the valley.
The best months to spot cranes are between October and March, with the best chance between November and January. The best times for viewing are at dawn or dusk, when all the birds in the valley congregate for the night. The RSPN removed a viewing hide in 2005 out of concern for the bird’s well-being but you can watch the birds from the center’s viewing area or from the valleyside hiking trails. Wear dull-coloured clothes, keep your distance and refrain from flash photography.
The RSPN initiated and sponsors the annual Black-Necked Crane Festival on 12 November, the day following the king’s birthday. It’s primarily an effort to instil conservation values into the people of Phobjikha, but tourists are welcome to watch the festivities, most of which are folk dances staged by school children.

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